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	<title>Alcoholist &#187; genever</title>
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		<title>TotC2009 notes: Low Country Libations</title>
		<link>http://alcoholi.st/2009/07/totc2009-notes-low-country-libations/</link>
		<comments>http://alcoholi.st/2009/07/totc2009-notes-low-country-libations/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Fri, 10 Jul 2009 16:30:24 +0000</pubDate>
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				<category><![CDATA[Events]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[genever]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[history]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[notes]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Old Schiedam]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Tales of the Cocktail]]></category>

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		<description><![CDATA[Philip Duff (door74 owner) and Timo Janse (door74 head bartender, author of Shake It!, about non-alcoholic drinks for children) discuss Low Country Libations, especially ones we can&#8217;t get in the US (with which Philip repeatedly taunted the audience&#8230;)

&#8220;Low Country&#8221; means, roughly, the Benelux &#8211; &#8220;We live in the crotch of Europe.&#8221; [I've no doubt that [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><a href="http://talesofthecocktail.com/people/speakers/919">Philip Duff</a> (door74 owner) and <a href="http://talesofthecocktail.com/people/speakers/1837">Timo Janse</a> (door74 head bartender, author of <em>Shake It!</em>, about non-alcoholic drinks for children) discuss <a href="http://talesofthecocktail.com/events/seminars/1067">Low Country Libations</a>, especially ones we can&#8217;t get in the US (with which Philip repeatedly taunted the audience&#8230;)</p>
<ul>
<li>&#8220;Low Country&#8221; means, roughly, the Benelux &#8211; &#8220;We live in the crotch of Europe.&#8221; [I've no doubt that was Philip.]</li>
<li>Philip might have missed a word: &#8220;Timo&#8217;s book is about non-alcoholic children. Er&#8230;&#8221;</li>
<li>modern inventions [this seemed a bit more in context at the time]:
<ul>
<li>penicillin</li>
<li>walk on the moon</li>
<li>the Internet</li>
<li>women in bars</li>
</ul>
</li>
<li>Only session with NO sponsors [but I have to presume that Philip didn't buy all the Easter Egg bottles of Old Schiedam himself... they just weren't in the room.]</li>
<li>&#8220;Der Naturen Bloeme&#8221; (1269) &#8211; first reference to distilling in Europe</li>
<li>juniper &#8211; &#8220;He who has cramps, cook juniper in wine; it&#8217;s good against the pain.&#8221;</li>
<li>&#8230; and early distilling was precisely juniper and wine</li>
<li>late 1400s, &#8220;Making Burned Wine&#8221;
<ul>
<li>botanicals: grains of Paradise, galangeel [what?], nutmeg, cloves, cinnamon, ginger</li>
<li>served has a [health] tonic</li>
</ul>
</li>
<li>1497 &#8211; Brandewijn (sp?) in Amsterdam</li>
<li>1552 &#8211; Genieve &#8211; aqua vitae</li>
<li>1582 &#8211; Kornbrandewijn &#8211; &#8220;in aroma and taste is almost the same as brandy-wine</li>
<li>1602 &#8211; Dutch East India Co., or Verenigde Oost-Indisch Co. (VOC), upon whose conquests <em>Dune</em> was based:
<ul>
<li>50,000 employees</li>
<li>functioned as a nation (conquered states, printed their own money)</li>
<li>fueled a spending boom that got silly enough that people were paying ~10 million [whatevers] for a tulip bulb</li>
<li>Indonesia (whence Batavia Arrack)</li>
<li>rolled up in ships, offered to pay for spices/silks/goods, if the city refused to pay, they politely pointed at all the cannon on the ships</li>
</ul>
</li>
<li>Dutch Navy&#8217;s drink was Genever (a taste of Olde Schiedam came around here, and I&#8217;ll need to get to Europe to bring some back)</li>
<li>Genever from satellite cities because distillers kept pigs, feeding them the mash, and &#8220;pigs are smelly&#8221;</li>
<li>Olde Schiedam:
<ul>
<li>a wine-based Genever</li>
<li>single malt</li>
<li>2/3 barley &amp; 1/3 rye</li>
</ul>
<ul>
<li>Schiedam itself is a satellite city of Rotterdam</li>
<li>[I have:] &#8220;Shippem = Schiedam&#8221;</li>
<li>the only botanical is juniper</li>
</ul>
</li>
<li>1621 &#8211; The Dutch West Indies Co., Geoctrajeerde W-Indische Co (GWIC), was chartered
<ul>
<li>founded US (New Amsterdam)</li>
<li>otherwise unsuccessful</li>
<li>granted everything west of Capitain</li>
</ul>
</li>
<li>The Best selling regions for Genever outside Holland are Argentina &amp; Guadalupe</li>
<li>In the movie <em>Ray</em> there&#8217;s a reference to Bols Genever &#8211; not product placement, he really drank it every day</li>
<li>West Africa also drinks a lot of Genever; a good gift for a chief for his daughter&#8217;s hand in marriage</li>
<li>&#8220;So good it&#8217;d make a Bishop kick a hole in stained glass&#8221; [Philip, of a particular Genever, the name of which I expected to pull out of a photograph of the bottle, but since the camera and laptop were both burgled...]</li>
<li>1623 &#8211; Philip Massinger&#8217;s <em>Duke of Milan</em> first [literary] use of Genever</li>
<li>1827 &#8211; continuous still invented &#8211; per Philip, by Robert Stein, not by Angus Coffey</li>
<li>1860 &#8211; first continuous still <strong>operating</strong> in the Netherlands</li>
<li>1862 &#8211; [something's missing here:] Wondrich&#8217;s important quote on genever 5/6 to 1 relative to gin [Is this the thing about how Jerry Thomas's recipes actually work with genever? Too little context, because they launched into what describes different classes of genever]</li>
<li>Rules of genever:
<ol type="1">
<li>Terms
<ul>
<li>Oude (old) genever &#8211; aged or unaged whiskey with botanicals; taste shows that; softer, lower-proof (35%)</li>
<li>Jonge (young) genever is vodka with a hint of malt</li>
<li>The similarity of genever to gin is a myth; distilling with a Dutch King in England starts with lots of sugar (like genever), the process gets refined, ends up as grain neutral spirits</li>
<li>Timo: &#8220;Kettle One is about equivalent to jonge jenever&#8221;&#8230; but KO jenever is $11 (and better than the vodka) rather than $35; better as in better flavor profile</li>
<li>Jonge starts with Coluire [spelling? Hell, intelligible?] in the 1920s because of a shortage of grain post-war</li>
<li>Timo [I think]: &#8220;You can&#8217;t sell vodka in Holland.&#8221;</li>
</ul>
</li>
<li> Made in one of:
<ul>
<li>Holland</li>
<li>Belgium</li>
<li>Nord or Pas-de-Calais</li>
<li>Nordheim-Westfalen, DE</li>
<li>Niedersachsen, DE</li>
</ul>
</li>
<li>Must contain juniper, but it does not have to be a discernible flavor (gin, per ATF, must smell of juniper)</li>
<li>content:
<ul>
<li>jonge genever is
<ul>
<li>15% malt wine (whiskey)</li>
<li>70° proof</li>
<li>max 10 grams sugar/L</li>
</ul>
</li>
<li>oude genever
<ul>
<li>min. 15% malt wine</li>
<li>max. 70° proof</li>
<li>max 20 grams sugar/L</li>
<li><strong>if</strong> aged, min. 1 year, in a max 700 L barrel</li>
</ul>
</li>
</ul>
</li>
</ol>
</li>
<li> Willem Kieft
<ul>
<li>founded American whiskey by 1644 &#8211; first distiller in US</li>
<li>he was the &#8220;utter bastard&#8221; (Philip, of course) running the US GWC</li>
<li>recalled because of how much he abused the settlers</li>
<li>&#8230; but he gave us Pennsylvania rye</li>
<li>succeeded by Peter Stouson (sp?)</li>
</ul>
</li>
<li>1637 &#8211; Pieter Blower invented rum in Barbados, also under GWC</li>
<li>Simon Schama&#8217;s <a href="http://www.amazon.com/Embarrassment-Riches-Interpretation-Culture-Golden/dp/0679781242"><em>Embarrassment of Riches</em></a> covers all this very Dutch ___ India Co business.</li>
<li>a history of brandy (remember, from brandewijn):
<ul>
<li>1585 &#8211; fall of Antwerp</li>
<li>1604 &#8211; 50% of distillers in Charente (now Cognac) were Dutch</li>
<li>19 May 1972 on VOC</li>
<li>[... and I got distracted by a tasting...]</li>
</ul>
</li>
<li>1724 &#8211; bitter, herb-infused genever (roughly &#8220;equivalent to MD20/20&#8243;)</li>
<li>New developments:
<ul>
<li>yonge genever -&gt; Ketel One vodka</li>
<li>old genever -&gt; Bols 1830</li>
</ul>
</li>
<li>[My notes here on, just half a Moleskine page, are a mess of spirit types and brand names; I'll go through Philip's slide show and fill this in when I can figure out what I was trying to keep up with.]</li>
</ul>
<p>Inline in my notes, but separated here, are some of the spirits we tasted (that Philip will be glad to remind you that you can&#8217;t get in the US) and were not lost to the loss of the camera:</p>
<ul>
<li>Els la Vera &#8211; 4-5 grams of sugar/L, from Maastricht Lindbergh; similar to absinthe, malt cane(?); botanicals grow only in volcanic soil (replicated by Bols)</li>
<li>hand-grated mandarin orange-infused Old Schiedam Mandayner(sp?)</li>
<li>Dutch wine, Apostelhoeve (first written proof of which is 871)</li>
<li>Rutte (aged) Paradyswijn</li>
</ul>
<p>As with all of Philip&#8217;s presentations, this one is <a href="http://www.slideshare.net/philipduff/low-country-libations">available on slideshare.net</a>.</p>
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