The continuing saga of my new Old Fashioned tattoo.

28
Jan/12
2

For something like six months, I’ve been planning a new tattoo spanning my shoulder blades.

Given what I do for my day job, I need to stick to areas of my body typically concealed by business casual attire, which inconveniently forces me to at least partially disrobe in order to display my body art, so even if we’re pretty good friends in meatspace, you may not have realized I had any tattoos at all.

Well, I now have three, and I’ll quickly bring you up to speed on the extant two:

Cocktails are better than sad computers.

Cocktails are better than sad computers. (Right shoulder.)

These two bytes, as ASCII, are gr.

These two bytes, as ASCII, are "gr". (Left shoulder.)

Okay, so that’s out of the way, then.

As anyone who has some (the only people who have only one tattoo are the ones who haven’t yet gotten the second one they have planned; this rule holds true up to at least the “have three, planning fourth” point) will tell you, and only those without tattoos will dispute: tattoos are addictive, and, generally, the scale and complexity of the work increases over time.

Operating under this natural law, I’d been planning, sketching, and discussing with friends the back tattoo for quite some time. The plan was this: the recipe for an Old Fashioned, the way I typically prepare it. And I drink a lot of these, especially in hotel rooms (I see a lot of those; the afore-mentioned day job had me on the road for 210 days in 2011), where all you need is a 3 oz or smaller dasher bottle to bring your own bitters along, the purchase of a bottle of spirits, and you’re set. (The sugar and stirring implement come from the coffee service, the ice comes from the ice machine down the hall or, in high rise hotels, a floor or two up or down.)

In November, as part of a campaign to burn off vacation days I couldn’t roll over before the end of calendar 2011, I visited my friend Louisa while our mutual friend Hannah was in the last weekend of a month-long visit. Louisa’s a reference librarian outside of Kansas City (tangent: when near Kansas City, or even just on a couple-hour-plus layover at [M,K]CI, make a point of visiting Justus Drugstore, where the sketch below was done, and where both the food and drinks are insanely great and a majority of the ingredients are sourced at least regionally if not locally), and Hannah’s a bona fide Artist.

Naturally, I recreated my lousy-quality sketch for Hannah, and she made it prettier:

Hannahs sketch for my Old Fashioned tattoo

Hannah's sketch for my Old Fashioned tattoo

Exactly how to represent “sugar” without it becoming confusing right next to “ice” was still in
debate at that point, but this is basically what my tattoo artist recreated.

That tattoo artist is Bird Gudice, who currently works, with three other extremely skilled artists (in many mediums: the shop’s got interesting paintings and sculptures scattered all over) at Black Vulture Gallery, conveniently right down the street from my house. Bird looked over Hannah’s sketch, discussed the sugar question (I’d finally come down on something I could describe but not draw: “You know, that canonical sugar jar, with a lid, and a little spoon poking out, labeled ‘SUGAR’.”), and proceeded to freehand the lines for the tattoo in water-soluble ink on my back. It looked right to me, so we started on the lines.

Ninety minutes later, I stepped outside for a cigarette while Bird prepped the shader needle. If you haven’t ever had a large colored or shaded tattoo, you won’t be familiar with this device: suffice to say that it’s actually somewhere between six and ten individual needles, mounted in the same tattoo gun. Yes, this hurts a lot: imagine dragging a cheese grater across your skin over and over and over
again. It’s just like that.

But this is a passing pain for something that you (or, I, in this case) want to have for the rest of your
(my) life, so it’s worth it. Counting breaks, the whole session took about four and a half hours. I understand now that that’s generally considered “way too long”: after about three hours, most people have blown through the chemicals that their body had ready to compensate for pain (mostly adrenaline, but a few others too), and it’d really be better to cut off there and come back for a second session. That said, this hurt non-trivially, but I wasn’t ever screaming or crying (concentrating a lot on breathing: definitely), so maybe I’ve got something resembling a decent pain tolerance.

Right, that’s the cringe-inducing part out of the way.

Here, look, the result is really pretty, in my opinion (and remember, because this will come
up later, it’s on my body, so it’s my opinion that counts):

Old Fashioned tattoo

Old Fashioned tattoo

And if it ended here, this would just be about my showing off my body art, which wouldn’t, in my opinion, justify a blog post, especially not to a blog that purports to discuss booze (yeah, sure, two of my tattoos are about booze, but That’s Not News). Now we enter the twilight zone of Internet commentary. After I’d scheduled the appointment for this tattoo, but before it had taken place, Ann Tuennerman, who (with her husband, Paul) runs Tales of the Cocktail, had put out a call for booze-related tattoos in various online fora, so I emailed her the “cktls > sadmac” one above and described my plans for this one.

Ann dug the idea, so I passed the image along the day after the tattoo went into place, and she apparently liked it enough to publish it under the TotC masthead on Facebook… and
then ~50 bartenders around the world “shared” it on Facebook (I read “shares” captioned in Portuguese, Russian–I think, Cyrillic, anyway, Greek, Chinese, German, and Italian… plenty in English too, of course), and something around 400 people “liked” it. A handful of people questioned or ridiculed it, but that’s cool: it’s not their tattoo, it’s mine. They don’t have to like it. One of the people who came across it through those re-”shares”, however, believed it is something I should be embarrassed about (I’m not, obviously), and that resulted in this:

failblog.org repost of my OF tattoo

failblog.org repost of my OF tattoo

I’d never have seen this had my friend Chuque not pointed it out to me. The commentary on that page is, well, exactly what you’d expect of that forum, but it’s pretty hilarious. I’ve responded to several comments there, but my responses are “pending moderation”. So, you know, I got a chuckle out of this, but when I stopped to think about it: this is copyright violation. That pictured tattoo is on my back, that picture was taken using my iPhone by my friend Heather. I explicitly gave Ann permission to post it to Facebook, which implicitly gave all those other random people permission to re-”share” it. All of that’s fine.

But then some guy I don’t know (identified as “Jimbo” in the failblog.org post) sent it in to Ben Huh’s “ugliest tattoos” website. I’m actually completely okay with the image’s use in that way, but I’m not okay that they made no attempt to request my permission first.

Because Ben Huh is not a moron, his website includes a convenient link to report issues like this, so I used it to simply assert, “You don’t own that, and you didn’t ask my permission to post it. Where
do we go from here?” The auto-response from that suggests I wait two to three business days for a response. That clock starts ticking Monday, so stay tuned.

BUT THAT’S NOT ALL!

I’m a big fan of the former (and future?) radio show, current podcast Too Beautiful to Live, hosted by Luke Burbank (see also, NPR’s Wait Wait… Don’t Tell Me!). As it happens, a friend of Luke’s (who hosts another Seattle-area-based podcast, of which there are many; I fear I can’t recall precisely which, but it’s one of the NOIZBEAM shows) actually curates Failbook, and Ben Huh, head honcho for the whole cheezburger/failblog world, has been an interview guest on TBTL.

So, on a whim, and riding high on having been explicitly mentioned on the podcast a couple times recently (most recently, because I hosted the Philadelphia listening party for the
1000th episode of TBTL), I sent Luke and his producer Jen this email telling basically the story I’ve just related to you. Within a couple of hours, I received this response (slight contextual note: fans of TBTL are referred to as “tens”, from the time when Luke asserted on the air that the show had “literally TENS of listeners!”):

From: [Luke]
Subject: RE: Ben Huh's enterprise has now made fun of a Ten
Date: Sat, 28 Jan 2012 11:40:40 -0700
To: [me], [Jen]

this is fascinating. Would you want to come on TBTL to talk about it?

best,

Luke

www.tbtl.net
206-414-TBTL

Yes, of course I said yes. So that’ll probably happen later this week. Stay tuned for that too.


Update 2012-01-31: Two major items today!

3 August 2009’s libations

4
Aug/09
0

(Continuing a leitmotif.)

Summer Herb Bouquet
I’ve had Aperol cocktails on the back of my mind since I was asked about them not terribly long ago. That, combined with leftover freshly-squeezed orange juice from this past weekend’s party and a curiosity to play with basil flowers as a garnish begot this. I think there’s too much Aperol in this recipe (drop it to ¾ oz, but that may require an adjustment of either the gin or the St. Germain, and I haven’t remade it yet), but it’s on the verge of being a lovely summer drink.

1½ oz Hayman’s Old Tom gin (if you don’t have Old Tom, use 1¼ oz of a plymouth-style—including Plymouth brand—gin and ¼ oz simple syrup)
½ oz fresh orange juice
½ oz St. Germain
2 dashes aromatic bitters (I used Bitter Truth, Angostura might actually be better)
2 leaves fresh basil (I used the cinnamon basil from my back yard, same for the flowers below, but I expect any variety will work, if slightly differently)

Shake all of the above on ice, double-strain (the second strainer should be mesh, not just a julep: it’s catching the herb bits) into a Collins glass filled with crushed ice, garnish with a couple of basil flowers.

Attention

As before, but this time with basil flowers as a garnish. (Guess why those were floating around…)

Old Fashioned
Jacob Briars and Sebastian Reaburn have a lot to say about the proper ways to make an Old Fashioned. This isn’t their way, it’s my way.

3 oz Rittenhouse 100 Rye
1 sugar cube
liberal dashes Angostura bitters

Drop the sugar cube in a mixing glass, soak it with Angostura bitters, add one barspoon room temperature to warm water, muddle the sugar cube into the bitters. Add the rye, fill the glass halfway with ice, and stir assertively but not aggressively for at least 90 seconds. Strain (use a julep, please) into an Old Fashioned glass with a couple of good ice cubes in it. Garnish with a lemon twist.

Toronto
I learned this at Deep Ellum (the bar in Boston with the US East Coast’s best Manhattan variation list, rather than the city in Texas for which the former is named), and I’m pretty sure what I do is closer to what I had there than Jamie Boudreau’s recipe of the same name, which has both too much sugar and too little Fernet for my palate.

3 oz Old Overholt Rye
1 oz Fernet-Branca

Stir on ice, strain into a chilled cocktail glass, garnish with a smacked mint leaf (I used spearmint from the back yard, but any old thing will do, the larger the leaf the better—I picked the one pictured here without light).

TotC2009 notes: Molecular DNA of Classic Cocktails

9
Jul/09
1

(Event link.)

Despite how “molecular mixology” is a term a lot of people dislike, it’s just the term that’s new, not the concept: many classic cocktails used (without necessarily knowing all the science) some of the same techniques. Led by Jacob Briars from 42 Below and Sebastian Reaburn (from New Zealand and Australia, respectively). Probably some of the best swag was at this one (not to belittle the content): a huge 42 Below muddler, a likewise-branded simple bottle, Cherry Heering 1½ / ¾ oz jigger.

  • 1909: the Futurist Manifesto on Food by Marinetti released:
    • “No more pasta!”
    • perfect meals required harmony, including so far as furniture in the room
    • absolute originality
    • Marinetti was interested in “the evolution of knife and fork” (whatever that means)
    • courses in a meal to see or smell, not to eat (which molecular gastronomy is doing, but mixology probably couldn’t get away with)
    • colloidal mills to pre-chew food for you to make it easier to eat
    • chemicals to test pH and sugar levels in food
    • Why, then, did it take 100 years for molecular stuff to take off? (No real clear answer provided, so maybe it was rhetorical…)
  • molecular mixology should just be tricky fancy stuff, it relates to the thought process
  • deconstructing drinks helps us understand them, teach them, see what the techniques are actually doing
  • some place in Toronto (missed the name) is doing a cold-smoked Manhattan in jelly form, served under a globe with the smoke roiling around it (be nice to figure out where…)
  • Jerry Thomas got there first:
    • Ramos Gin Fizz – colloidal reaction in the eggs & cream
    • Blue Blazer – burning whiskey removes specific flavors: see also Burnt Brandy
    • Clover Club – egg white as a foaming agent:
      • traps, in emulsification, flavors that might have escaped as gass bubbles, which are then released in your mouth
      • foams are bad in cocktail glasses (rather than coupes) because the foam “runs away” from the drinker
      • for vegans (Jacob is): use soy lecithan, which almost works
  • tasting is a Bloody Mary because it “has all the aspects of taste”
    • 2 pts vodka
    • 5 pts tomato
    • ½ pts lemon
    • 1 pinch each of cayenne & black pepper
    • dash of lime
    • dash of cherry heering
  • The old taste location map of the tongue (sweet in front, salt behind, sour behind that, bitter at the back) is bogus: from a mis-translation of a German article.
  • You do not taste with your palate, taste is in the brain, the palate is just the host to a chemical reaction.
  • The first taste we have in life is sweetness, the others develop later, and some people never actually develop them all. “If you really like sweet drinks, you’re essentially a child.”
  • the tastes are:
    • sweet (Cherry Heering in the tasting)
    • salty (duh)
    • sour (lemon)
    • bitter – the taste some people never really develop
    • umami (from the tomato here) – amino acids
    • smoke – ~ 5 years ago, discovered (citation?) that 70-80% of the population tastes smoke as a distinct flavor
  • How to manipulate our reaction to flavors: affect people’s emotion, expectation, attention, memory, vision, and hearing
  • Tricky and fancy presentation (flaming, etc) stimulates the mind before tasting the drink (even if some of it also changes the taste)
    • smelling coffee beans (popular at wine tastings now) does NOT “reset your palate” — “You’re just… smelling coffee!”
    • stepping away from the palate fatigue to do anything else gives your brain a break
    • Bartending is entertainment: competing with movie theaters, not restaurants
    • Everything in a tiki bar or a speakeasy-style bar you know what to expect.
    • To shake things up, a bar in Melbourne (missed the name) hangs all their bottles from bungee cords
  • next tasting: a Corpse Reviver #2, revived (Craddock / Hester)
    • 1 part Bombay Sapphire
    • 1 part Cointreau
    • 1 part Lillet Blonde
    • 1 part lemon juice
    • … and an absinthe “shock”
    • The absinthe shock was in an inflated balloon, held over the drink (in front of the customer) and popped in their face
    • The absinthe balloon resets your taste buds / brain because of the surprise
  • Going through the bartender psychologist routine and patter to cheer people up really will make them think things taste better.
  • See also keeping constant contact with customers, to make them know that they’re attended upon
  • Expectation on the customer’s side is important: don’t lose their trust
  • The cocktail menu sets expectations as well.
  • Flavor stimulates memory: eg, vanilla, present in breast milk; grape is another early-life flavor
  • Vision is important to: server the same wine in three different glasses (especially varying quality) and people will assert that they like the one in the prettiest glass best
  • The two Corpse Revivers we were given alternately were the same drink, just with blue food coloring in one: really, no difference, but because we associate that blue color with TGIF, we’re less inclined to like it
  • Play music that’s cohesive with the tone of the bar.
  • Actually explain with words that describe the tastes what’s in the drink, not just what ingredients you used.
  • Thought experiment: How would you explain the flavor of coffee to someone who’d never had it?
  • Japanese bartenders stir carefully only around the outside of the mixing glass to avoid “offending the ear”
  • Deconstructing the Old Fashioned:
    • more of a style rather than a specific drink
    • colder, larger ice, different shakes, etc: we don’t necessarily understand the reasons we’re told to do these things in a specific way
    • One of them (Sebastian, I think?) uses the Old Fashioned as a test for a bar he hasn’t visited before (gr: oddly, I did that in the Carousel Bar on the first night, which is why I wasn’t ever back there)
    • UK Old Fashioned style differs greatly from US style: they keep adding whiskey and ice in small proportions while stirring for 5 to 7 minutes…
    • … but Why? Testing what that process produces:
      • At the start, the ice is at -3° C, bourbon is at 24° C, simple syrup is at 23° C
      • 1 minute of stirring takes the bourbon to 12° C
      • 2 minutes it’s below 0° C
      • after 5 minutes it’s down to -5° C
      • after 7 minutes it’s still about -5° C (gr: but more diluted, right?)
      • So the difference is temperature and ABV
      • Final temperature was -5° C with a volume of 112 mL, and an ABV of 20.09% / 40.18 proof
    • That might be too low a proof for an Old Fashioned, but you do want to bring it down to ~60 proof to avoid an ethanol burn
    • If you warm alcohol too much, the flavor escapes with the ethanol evaporation.
    • Contrarily, lowering the temperature slows the molecules in it down so that they don’t escape as quickly, then when they hit your palate, the flavor is released
  • Conclusions:
    1. Bartenders 150 years ago knew what they were doing.
    2. The Old Fashioned can be batched (as long as you keep it at -5° C)
  • Which leads to another tasting, a Tequila Old Fashioned, constructed in a bucket at the beginning of the session (and yes, it was fine):
    • 6 pts chilled (-10° C) tequila
    • 2 pts spring water near 0° C
    • 1 pt simple syrup
    • 1 pt gum arabic (made with acacia; present here as an emulsifier to give weight / silkiness)
    • 3 dashes Peychaud’s (per serving, I have to assume)
    • ½ (?) pt Cherry Heering
    • and some sodium agenate? It was moving kind of quickly there…

Tales of the Cocktail 2009 begins…

7
Jul/09
0

I’ve yet to actually attend any events (I slept through this morning’s 10:30 “Bittersweet Truth of Starting a Bar” session, which is kind of a shame, but I expect it will be several years before I have the capital to make use of its lessons, so c’est la vie), but Tales of the Cocktail 2009 is definitely in full swing.

Last night I settled into the Monteleone hotel, had a mediocre (and fruit-filled) Old Fashioned at the Carousel Bar, took a stroll along the water, and stepped into the Chart Room for a much better Old Fashioned courtesy of Lisa, where I met a nice man in from London to sling Bombay Sapphire (I was polite, but I did warn him, perhaps unnecessarily, that some attendees won’t be shaken from believing it’s more of a flavored vodka, no matter how similar it tastes to the Plymouth they adore) named, of all things, Merlin.

Today I had brunch at Flanagan’s, observed the kickoff event (on the street in front of the Monteleone), tasted this year’s “signature cocktail” (the Creole Julep, sufficiently lauded on the Tales web site) and an Herbsaint Frappé (which I expect I’ll see more of at the Herbsaint event this evening).

Beyond the side events (like the Herbsaint thing), here’s my agenda:

Wednesday
16:30 – The Fine Art of Banging Out the Drinks like a Maniac

Thursday
10:30 – Mixologists and Their Toys
12:30 – The Molecular DNA of Classic Cocktails
14:30 – Chemistry of Cocktails
16:30 – New Orleans Pharmacists
Cocktail Hour

Friday
10:30 – Cocktails of the Tales
12:30 – Low Country Libations
14:30 – Cocktails Born from the Seven Seas
16:30 – Drink Italy
On the Fly Competition

Saturday
10:30 – Cocktail Legends
12:30 – Historical Approach to Cocktails
14:30 – Hammer of the Gods
16:30 – The Science of Shaking
7 Deadly Sins

Sunday
10:30 – Paying the Piper: Your Hangover and you
12:30 – Liquid Nudging

Any questions? Suggestions?